In keeping with the 20 year trend cycle, Nicholas Ghesquière’s eminent creation that epitomized the Kates (Moss & Olsen), grungy, messy, slightly boho early 2000s look, has been awoken from its slumber to be displayed again for the masses, both in it’s original and re-released forms.In part, this is due to the penchant of certain brands to make strategic moves towards nostalgia, playing into this “20 year trend cycle” with the re-release of iconic bags including the Dior Saddle, Fendi Spy, Chloe Paddington and more. The re-release of the Balenciaga City bag is perhaps one of the strongest, most current examples of this which has reached a level of popularity among a larger audience, not only those who appreciate and seek out archival and vintage pieces.
Perhaps the slight difference with the other re-releases, and much to the chagrin of lovers of this bag for it’s slouchy design, lack of outward audacious branding and slightly less high profile and thus lower resale buy-in value, this bag has taken off again and has been experiencing a more widespread appreciation, driving up the resale price as well as the rarity and thus demand of certain colourways/materials.
For some, this may be a move away from a preference for logo mania, and ostentatious branding, without necessarily embracing trends epitomized as “quiet luxury”, while for others this may simply be a desire to access a newly-covetable piece as it re-reaches it’s apex of popularity.
It will be interesting to see the continued/arguably growing response in the retail space as creative directors of the various luxury houses maintain a balance between the desire for fresh, innovative design and nostalgia provoking pieces which capture a new generation as well as inspire existing clients to buy in again and again. Styles like the Gucci Jackie, with limited outward branding have maintained a sense of longevity which has carried with it the brand identities throughout different eras of creative direction and ever- changing styles and trend cycles. Just as Demna Gvasalia re-released the city bag in 2024, aptly renaming it “Le City”, he is doing the same at Gucci in his Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection, with his take on the Gucci Jackie, as well as some of the more vintage bamboo turnlock styles.
We also recently saw Matthieu Blazy revisit the Chanel re-issue, refreshingly with a slightly more disheveled take on the traditionally formal and structured Chanel. With some interpretations of re-released bags being on-the-nose versions of their predecessors, some are taking a new angle on the re-release universe, sometimes to acclaim, perhaps at times not so much, highlighting the design excellence of it’s original version.
